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The Enduring Stronghold: Odawara Castle and the Hojo Legacy

Odawara Castle (Odawara-jō), standing proudly in Odawara, Kanagawa, is far more than just a picturesque reconstruction; it's a potent symbol of centuries of power struggles, resilience, and transformation in the Kanto region. While the gleaming white donjon (keep) visitors see today is a 1960 reinforced concrete structure, built upon the massive stone foundations of its predecessor, the history of fortifications on this strategic hill dates back much further, to the Kamakura Period (1185–1333). In those early days, the Doi clan held sway here, and their relatives, the Kobayakawa, established a fortified residence near the current castle site. Political tides shifted, and following the Uesugi Zenshū Revolt of 1416, the Omori clan of Suruga took control of Odawara.

The truly defining chapter in Odawara's history began in 1495. This was the year the ambitious and cunning warlord Ise Moritoki, who would later be known as Hōjō Sōun, the progenitor of the powerful Odawara Hōjō clan, seized the castle from the Omori. This event marked the dawn of the Hojo clan history in the region, a dynasty that would dominate the Kanto plain for the next century. Under five successive generations of Hōjō lords, Odawara Castle underwent dramatic expansion and fortification. It evolved from a simple stronghold into the formidable nerve center of a vast domain, becoming one of the most renowned Sengoku period castles. Its strategic location, perched on a hill overlooking the coastal plain and controlling access routes, was enhanced by ingenious defensive architecture. A complex network of wet moats utilizing the low-lying terrain, dry moats carved into the hillsides, imposing earthen ramparts (dorui), intricate stone walls (ishigaki), and natural cliffs created a layered defense system that earned Odawara Castle a reputation for near invincibility. This reputation was tested and proven when it successfully repelled sieges by two of the era's most famous warlords: Uesugi Kenshin in 1561 and Takeda Shingen in 1569.

The Great Siege and the Fall of the Hojo

As the Sengoku period neared its climax, the Hōjō clan stood as one of the last major obstacles to the unification of Japan under Toyotomi Hideyoshi. In anticipation of the inevitable conflict, the Hōjō undertook a final, massive expansion of Odawara Castle's defenses around 1587. They constructed an elaborate system of outer fortifications known as the Sōgamae, which enclosed not only the castle itself but the entire castle town, stretching for roughly 9 kilometers. This made Odawara one of the largest castle complexes ever built in Japan. However, when Hideyoshi arrived in 1590 with an overwhelming army estimated at over 200,000 men, he opted for a strategy that bypassed the need to storm the seemingly impregnable walls. The famous Siege of Odawara became less a battle and more a demonstration of Hideyoshi's power and resources. He blockaded the castle by land and sea, built a temporary siege castle of his own (the Ishigakiyama Ichiya Castle, or "One-Night Castle") on a facing hill to demoralize the defenders, and systematically captured the Hōjō branch castles across the Kanto region. After three months, facing dwindling supplies and no hope of reinforcements, the Hōjō clan surrendered, ending their century of dominance. Hideyoshi, demonstrating his authority, ordered the dismantling of much of the Hōjō-era fortifications. Subsequently, the vast Kanto domains, including Odawara, were transferred to Tokugawa Ieyasu, a move that strategically positioned Ieyasu for his eventual rise to Shogun.

Odawara Under the Tokugawa Shogunate

With Tokugawa Ieyasu focusing on developing his new capital in Edo (modern Tokyo), Odawara Castle entered a new phase. Ieyasu entrusted the castle to Ōkubo Tadayo, one of his trusted retainers. The Ōkubo clan rebuilt Odawara Castle, but on a significantly reduced scale compared to its Hōjō-era zenith. The new castle essentially occupied what was formerly the third bailey (sannomaru) of the Hōjō stronghold. The Ōkubo clan's tenure was interrupted briefly but they later returned, overseeing the domain which eventually grew to 103,000 koku. Between the Ōkubo periods, the castle was held by Abe Masatsugu and later became tenryō (territory directly administered by the Shogunate), during which time a palace was built for the planned retirement of Shogun Tokugawa Hidetada (though he never used it). The Inaba clan also held the castle for a period starting in 1623, undertaking significant renovations. Throughout the Edo period, Odawara served as an important post station (shukuba) on the vital Tokaido highway linking Edo and Kyoto, ensuring its continued prosperity and strategic importance, albeit secondary to Edo.

Trials by Nature and Time

The Edo period castle, while impressive, proved vulnerable to the forces of nature. Odawara is situated in a seismically active region, and the castle suffered major damage in several large earthquakes. The 1703 Genroku earthquake was particularly devastating, destroying the donjon and most other structures. Reconstruction was a lengthy process; the donjon was rebuilt by 1706, but restoring the rest of the castle took until 1721. Further significant damage occurred during the 1782 Tenmei earthquake and again in the 1853 Kaei earthquake, necessitating repeated repairs and rebuilds. Despite these setbacks, the castle remained the administrative center of the Odawara Domain under the Ōkubo lords until the end of the feudal era.

From Feudal Symbol to Modern Landmark

The Meiji Restoration in 1868 brought profound changes. The new imperial government, seeking to dismantle the symbols of the old feudal system, ordered the destruction of castles across Japan. Odawara Castle was no exception. Between 1870 and 1872, its remaining structures – the donjon, gates, and turrets – were pulled down. The imposing stone walls and moats were largely left, but the castle effectively ceased to exist as a functional fortress. In 1893, the Ōkubo Jinja, a Shinto shrine dedicated to the spirits of the Ōkubo lords, was established on the stone base of the former donjon. An Imperial Villa was constructed within the inner baileys in 1901, signifying the area's transition, but this too was short-lived, being destroyed by the catastrophic 1923 Great Kantō earthquake. This quake also caused significant damage to the remaining castle ramparts, collapsing sections of the stone facing.

The Odawara Castle Reconstruction Era

Limited repairs were made to the stone walls in the 1930s, and two yagura (turrets) were rebuilt, albeit at half their original scale. Recognition of the site's historical importance grew, leading to its designation as a National Historic Site in 1938. The post-war era saw a renewed interest in preserving and celebrating local history. In 1950, the ruined stone base of the donjon was repaired, and the surrounding area was developed into Odawara Castle Park. The park gradually incorporated museums, recreational facilities, and eventually, the centerpiece: the Odawara Castle reconstruction of the donjon in 1960. This reconstruction, timed for the 20th anniversary of Odawara's designation as a city, aimed to restore the castle's iconic silhouette to the skyline. Built with reinforced concrete, it visually evokes the Edo-period structure but includes modern amenities and an observation deck on the top floor, a feature added for tourism rather than historical accuracy. Subsequent efforts focused on more authentic reconstructions of key gates based on historical plans: the Tokiwagi Gate (the main gate) in 1971, the Akagane Gate (Copper Gate) in 1997, and the Umadashi Gate (outer gate) in 2009. The main keep underwent further renovation in 2015-2016 to enhance earthquake resistance and modernize the interior museum exhibits, which showcase samurai armor, swords, and historical documents related to Odawara's past.

Odawara Today: Hub, Coast, and Gateway

Modern Odawara is a vibrant city that skillfully blends its rich historical legacy with its role as a crucial transportation hub and a pleasant coastal destination. Its strategic location in Kanagawa Prefecture remains key. Odawara Station is a major interchange, served by multiple JR lines, the Odakyu Electric Railway, the Izuhakone Railway, and importantly, the Tokaido Shinkansen. This excellent connectivity makes Odawara an easily accessible destination and a popular choice for a day trip from Tokyo. Many travelers use the Odawara Shinkansen stop as their primary access point for the wider region.

The Indispensable Gateway to Hakone

Perhaps Odawara's most significant role today is serving as the primary gateway to Hakone. The popular Hakone Free Pass often starts or includes travel from Odawara, and the Hakone Tozan Line railway begins its scenic mountain ascent from here. Visitors heading to Hakone's famous hot springs (onsen), art museums (like the Hakone Open-Air Museum or Pola Museum of Art), Lake Ashi cruises, or the volcanic Owakudani valley typically transfer at Odawara Station. This function makes Odawara Kanagawa a bustling transit point, but the city offers compelling reasons to linger and explore its own unique Odawara attractions before or after a Hakone excursion.

Life by Sagami Bay

Odawara's identity is also shaped by its location on the coast of Sagami Bay, Japan. This proximity offers beautiful coastal scenery and influences the local lifestyle and cuisine. The Odawara Fish Market at Hayakawa Port (Odawara Fishing Port) provides a fascinating glimpse into the local fishing industry. Early morning visitors can witness the lively auctions, while numerous restaurants surrounding the port offer exceptionally fresh seafood, including sushi, sashimi, and grilled fish, often sourced directly from the bay that morning. Enjoying a seafood meal here is one of the essential things to do in Odawara. The bay itself provides opportunities for coastal walks and enjoying the sea breeze, offering a different perspective from the castle and mountains.

Exploring Odawara's Diverse Attractions

While visiting Odawara Castle is paramount, the city offers a diverse range of sights. Within the castle park, the Hotoku Ninomiya Shrine provides a tranquil space dedicated to the locally born sage Ninomiya Sontoku, embodying ideals of hard work and lifelong learning. Just outside the station, Minaka Odawara offers a modern take on the old castle town atmosphere, perfect for Minaka Odawara shopping and dining. This complex includes shops selling local specialties like pickled plums (umeboshi) and the famous Odawara Kamaboko (steamed fish cake), souvenir shops, restaurants, and even a hotel and a rooftop foot bath with city views.

Culture, Nature, and Seasonal Beauty

For those interested in art and architecture with stunning views, the Enoura Observatory, though requiring advance booking, offers a unique contemplative experience overlooking Sagami Bay. Further exploration might lead to Gyokuhoji Temple with its intriguing 500 Rakan statues or the imposing bronze statue of Hōjō Sōun near the station. Nature lovers will appreciate the Odawara Flower Garden or, seasonally, the Soga Bairin (Plum Grove). The Odawara Plum Blossom Festival held here in February-March is a major event, drawing crowds to admire the thousands of blooming plum trees, often with Mount Fuji visible in the distance. These varied Odawara attractions contribute to the city's appeal for Kanagawa Prefecture tourism.

Odawara successfully balances its historical weight, particularly the legacy of Odawara Castle and the Hojo clan history, with its modern role as the gateway to Hakone and a pleasant city by Sagami Bay. Its accessibility via the Odawara Shinkansen makes it an ideal Odawara day trip from Tokyo or a longer stay exploring the rich tapestry of history, culture, and nature it offers.

A Local Guide's Tip: When visiting the Odawara Fish Market (Hayakawa Port), aim to arrive mid-morning after the main wholesale rush but before the lunchtime crowds hit the restaurants. This allows you to browse the retail stalls comfortably and secure a table for lunch at one of the popular seafood eateries without excessive waiting.

Interesting Fact: The massive outer fortifications (Sōgamae) built by the Hōjō clan before the 1590 siege were so extensive that remnants can still be found scattered throughout the modern city, sometimes unexpectedly appearing in residential areas or along roadsides, hinting at the vast scale of the original Sengoku period castle town defenses.