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From Oiartzun to Vitoria-Gasteiz: The Inland Road

Another way that was often used in the Basque territory went through the tunnel of San Adrián and on to the plains of Álava. It takes us back to Oiartzun, with its 12th century Gothic Church of San Esteban; in the surroundings one can see cromlechs from the Iron Age. The next step is Tolosa, which conserves its mediaeval nucleus with narrow streets and very old buildings, such as the 12th century Palace of ldiáquez and the 16th century Church of Santa María. Not far from there pilgrims began the picturesque crossing of the Tunnel of San Adrián, by way of a mediaeval road at an altitude of 1,443 m; inside the tunnel there stands a hermitage that was erected in l883 in substitution of the original mediaeval building. Outside the tunnel, travellers may continue to Salvatierra and Estíbaliz, upon the plains of Álava, until they reach Vitoria-Gasteiz. The old quarter harbours the most important buildings in the city: the 14th century Cathedral of Santa María with its three beautiful porticos; the Palace of Escoriaza-Esquivel and its plateresque façade; the Tower of Doña Ochanda; the House of Cordón; the Church of San Pedro and the Church of San Miguel, both from the 14th century.

From Castro Urdiales to San Vicente de la Barquera: The Jacobean Route in Cantabria

From the estuary of the Nervión River the old jacobean road entered the province of Cantabria via Castro Urdiales, the Roman Flaviobriga. Dominated by a castle that is one of the best instances of Gothic military architecture, the town also boasts, within the Puebla Vieja (Old Town), the Church of Santa María de la Asunción, one of the Gothic masterpieces in Cantabria; next to the church, the lighthouse-castle rises up majestically by the sea; the Roman Bridge and the Hermitage of Santa Ana complete the list of monuments in the town.

After crossing the Aguera River, pilgrims arrived at Laredo, a town located east of the estuary and gulf formed at the mouth of the Asón River. A seaside atmosphere pervades the old town, where the most important artistic feature is the Church of Nuestra Señora de la Asunción, commenced in the 13th century and completed in the 18th century.

After crossing the Asón River, travellers reached Santoña, one of the safest harbours in Cantabria thanks to its privileged geographical location. The Church of Santa María del Puerto, constructed in the Gothic style between the 13th and 14th centuries, was a mandatory visit for pilgrims. The main altarpiece includes a collection of 16th century Flemish painted panels. In Bareyo, following what is known as the Route of the Seven Towns, rises one of the most representative works of the Cantabric Romanesque, the precious 12th century Church of Santa María. It houses in its interior a Romanesque bautismal font, considered the most original monument of its kind in Cantabria. Santander was reached crossing the bay. This city, possibly the Roman Portus Victoriae, commences its factual history in the 11th century, when a village originated around the Abbey of San Emeterio. The Church of Santísimo Cristo, is undisputedly the most interesting archaeological monument in the city. Pilgrims would leave the rich merchants' town by the Gate of San Pedro and cross the estuaries of the Pas and San Martín de la Arena rivers, which took them to Santillana, the most important historic collection in Cantabria and one of the better conserved tourist areas in Spain. The town's origin goes hand-in-hand with the Monastery of Santa Juliana, from where Santillana received its name back in the 9th century. The town features several palaces and stately homes, remnants of its past splendour.



From Santillana, after crossing Cobreces and Comillas, pilgrims entered San Vicente de la Barquera, vía the famous Bridge of la Maza, with thirty-two arches and famed as the greatest in the kingdom. Remains of its mediaeval splendour, which peaked between the 13th and 15th centuries, may still be seen in the ruins of the castle, the walls and especially its parish church. The 13th century Gothic Church of Santa María de los Ángeles reflects through its vigorous style all of the features of the Cantabric Gothic; in its interior, which was reformed in the 16th century, a small chapel harbours the statue of the Inquisitor Antonio Corro, considered the most beautiful funereal sculpture in the region. The town has been declared a Historic-Artistic Monument.

The Besaya-Pisuerga Road: From Santander to Carrión de los Condes

Santander opened up to pilgrims the possibility of taking an inland route which, crossing the province southward, joined the meseta route at Carrión de los Condes. The most important milestones along the inland route were at Puente Arce, Cartes, with its mediaeval castle and other constructions; Yermo; Raicedo; La Serna; Silió; San Martin de Quevedo, with a 12th century Romanesque church, the same as Bárcena de Pie de Concha; Cervatos, where one can see the Romanesque Collegiate Church of San Pedro, one of the most interesting ones in the province, both for its elegant construction and its sculptural decorations; Aguilar de Campóo, in the province of Palencia, a town that conserves the Monastery of Santa María la Real, which was awarded with an European Nostra Prize in 1987, founded in the 9th century and with a 13th century Gothic church. Also in Aguilar, the Collegiate Church of San Miguel conserves its main Romanesque portico, whereas the rest of the building is in the Gothic style, and the Romanesque Church of Santa Cecilia is located outside the town. After crossing Herrera de Pisuerga, where one can see remains of the mediaeval wall and the castle, the route meets the French way at Carrión de los Condes.

From Llanes to Castropol: The Coastal Route in Asturias

Llanes is the first point of interest along the Jacobean route in the province of Asturias. Among the remains of its mediaeval past we may state the walls, the Church of Santa María (which was probably built in the 12th century), portions of the wall erected under Alfonso IX in the 13th century, as well as the fortified tower which stands amidst the ruins of the castle from the same period.

After leaving behind Ribadesella, a town featuring a picturesque old quarter, and Villaviciosa, with its proto-Gothic Church of Santa María de la 0liva, the Asturian way splits in two. One of the branches leads to Gijón, following the coast, and along this route rises the Church of San Salvador de Deva. Gijón conserves no remains from the mediaeval period, although its Roman traces (thermae and walls) do attract interest.

The other branch went towards Valdediós, the greatest mediaeval monastery in Asturias, built by order of Alfonso III alongside the pre-Romanesque Church of San Salvador (9th century). Continuing towards Oviedo, the route goes by Argüelles and Colloto, with a Romanesque church in each of these towns and a mediaeval bridge in the latter one.

The rest of the coastal road went by the Cabo de Peñas, with the Romanesque churches of Piedeloro and Logerezana, both in Carreño before reaching the city of Avilés, the most important mediaeval port on the Cantabric Sea (Bay of Biscay) and the landing spot for many pilgrims sailing from France and the British lsles. From its mediaeval past Avilés conserves the Romanesque Church of San Nicolás de Bari, the Church of San Francisco, a Gothic construction from the 13th and 14th century which includes Romanesque elements, and the Church of Santo Tomás de Sabugo, built in the 13th century in the Romanesque to Gothic transition style.

Crossing the mouth of the Nalón River, overlooked by a mediaeval tower, the traveller reaches Cullera, a typical seaside village where one can visit the Church of San Pedro. Nearby, in Soto de Luiña, there is one of the best Asturian baroque collections, consisting of the Parish Church of Santa María and the 18th century Rectory. The Asturian coastal route enters Castropol, a town on the estuary of the Eo river, the natural border with Galicia, a region entered vía Ribadeo which then leads to Lugo.